Thanksgivingの後の週末はAnno Nuevoという州立公園に行ってきた。野生の北方象アザラシ(Northern Elephant Seal)２０００頭が集まる繁殖地である。私の写真の後ろのほうの砂浜にごろごろと転がっているのが象アザラシである。
州が運営する公式Anno Nuevoサイトは、リアルタイムでビデオストリーミングをしてくれる"Seal Cam"が楽しい。当地の夜は起動していないが、30分の録画ビデオはいつでも見ることができる。写っているアザラシはみなごろごろと丸太のように寝ているだけだが、ぎゃーぎゃーと鳴き声がするので、写っていないどこかで血みどろの戦いやmatingが行われているのだろう。なんといっても象アザラシさんたちは数ヶ月もの間モノも食べずに戦いと生殖に明け暮れるためにこのビーチにやってくるのである。
このAnno Nuevoは私の住んでいるLos Altosから、距離にしたら30-40キロくらいだが、直接行く道がないので車で2時間弱くらい。Anno Nuevoについたら、駐車場に車を置いて、そこから2キロくらい砂丘を歩いていくとアザラシのいるビーチにつく。アザラシのイビキがあちこちからグーゴーグー、と聞こえるくらい間近に行くことができる。
アザラシの繁殖期は12月から4月にかけてで、この間はガイド付きのグループハイキングのみアクセス可能。定員がいっぱいになることもあるので、予め申し込んでおいたほうがいいらしい。私が行った11月30日はもうアザラシは来ていたが、ガイドなしで歩いていくことができる最後の日だったので、ぶらぶらと楽しみながら見にいった。
象アザラシはでかい。オスは2-2.5トンにもなる。海の中ではツルツルと自在に潜ってえさをとる。最長1時間近く、深度1.5キロ以上まで潜行できるのだ。血中のヘモグロビン量が多く、しかも体重に比較した血液量も多い上、潜水中の脈拍を一分間に3回まで落とせるので、長時間にわたって息をしないでも大丈夫なのである。
しかし、陸上では、ただの丸太。オス同士は覇権をかけて、流血の戦いをするが、それでもさっさと動くことはできないので、人間がその気になったらあっという間に皆殺しにできてしまう。19世紀には油目当てで乱獲され、1892年には世界中で、Baja California沖の島に50-100頭の群れが一つ残るだけになってしまった。その後、メキシコ政府、アメリカ政府の保護を受けて再度増殖し始め、今では16万頭いるらしい。めでたしめでたし。
Anno Nuevoの周囲にはハイキングやバイキング(自転車、です）ができる山やピーチがたくさんあるので宿泊。Costanoaというところにとまった。Costanoaは、camping designed by Martha Stewart、とでもいうべき「キャンプ場もどき」である。キャンバス地でできたテントのような小屋、ログキャビン、普通のホテルのような部屋などが選べる。私のキャンプ経験は、15歳のときオーストラリアで一回だけ。もう一度くらいしてみたいと思ったが、くさいシャワーとか寝袋とか、そういう「本物のキャンプ」はちょっとねー、という感じだったので、これ幸いと「テントもどき」を選択。バストイレは共同だが、部屋にはバスローブやAvedaのトイレタリーキットがあり、ベッドはヒーティングパッド付きだ。サウナやジャクジーもある。乗馬場もある。
翌朝は早起きして、Costanoaから15分ほど草の生えた砂丘を通り抜けて、太平洋の海を見に行く。波は荒くて強い。宿のパンフレットには
「海に背を向けないように」
と書いてある。
「突然足を波にさらわれ、そのまま強い潮に流されてしまうことがあります」。
それが誇張でないことがわかる強烈な波しぶきだ。波が砕けるところからしぶきが霧状に広がり、一面がパステル状のもやに覆われているように見える。一段高くなったところに座ってじっと波を見ていると、砂浜から20-30メートルのところに突然二頭の象アザラシが頭を出してきょろきょろと周りを見て、またさっと潜っていった。ここは鯨の回遊ポイントでもあって、運がよければ鯨が潮を吹いているのを見ることができる。そんな海をじっとみていると「こんなに大きな自然のごく近くに住んでいるんだなぁ。日常の細かい心配事なんてどうでもよいことだなぁ。」とおおらかな気持ちになる。日本の自然の中では「全ては土に返っていく」と感じるが、湿度の低いカリフォルニアでは「全ては風に返っていくんだなぁ」という感慨が迫る。
我が家は軟弱なので、山の上まで20キロ走る！みたいな、Californianが好むハイキングはちょっとカンベン、なのだが、3時間くらい山歩きをして、太平洋の波を見て、あとは暖炉の前で本を読む、というパターンが快適。また行きたい、と思ったCostanoa & Anno Nuevoでした。
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